Chapter 8 - Head rests, heat-duct, seat belts and step

This chapter covers the making of the head-rests, the aft heat-duct, the attachements for the seat-belts and the steps.

The modifications I am doing will now result in alternative ways of doing some of the things. In this chapter I will probably skip the head-rests for now. The plans
canopy is side-hinged, while I will make a forward-hinged. That makes the attachement of the head-rests different. Some builders have even skipped the
head-rests completely! I will most probably make removable head-rests like in a car. The head-rests are neither structural nor made to protect from a roll-over. It's
just for resting the head :-).

The plans calls out for 4-point seat-belts. I have bought 5-points with a crotch-strap to prevent "submarining" in case of a crash. This calls out for me having to
make a 5th attachment-point for the crotch-strap.
Head-rests
I plan to paint the plane yellow, so I've decided to have yellow seat-belts. The upholstery will also be yellow in some way.

The step as called out in the plans are also obsolete when I makes the extended strakes. The step will be much to much aft. Instead I will
make retractable steps aligned with the intrument-panel, and one on each side. I plan to copy Wayne Hicks steps.
There are several solutions to the head-rests when I read through the builder-blogs. Some have used head-rests from cars, other
have designed their own, and some have even skipped them totally. I decided to build the plans head-rests, but soon realized
that they looked too weird for me. Some have pointed out that they would fit a conehead, but not a normal human beeing. I tend
to agree.... :-)
The plans head-rests looks kinda weird... but I've seen them with some cool upholstery in a finished Cozy and it looked
great! But I decided to make them in another shape.
They are the same width and depth, but only 7" high and rounded. To get the glassed foam (glass on the inside) to
bend around the curved front and back I made several cuts in the foam. Then the foam easily followed the curve. I
floxed this and will fill the slits in the foam with flox prior to glassing the outside.
Shoulder-support
The shoulder-support is made as pr. plans except for the seatbelt-hardpoints. After advices from other
builders I expanded the spacing between the hardpoints to 11". Doing this I avoid making notches in the
head-rests and I also avoid to have the seat-belts lying into my neck. With my belts it's no danger that I will
slip out of them in a crash. In this picture I have epoxyed the plywood.
I made the glass-fills that goes ontop of the plywood as per plans. Wetted out three plies of BID 5" x 5" and cut
them up in smaller 1.25" x 1.25" pieces. Using saran-wrap ontop and under this is no problem.
I masked the foam to avoid spilling epoxy when I placed the BID-fillers on the plywood.
The nut-plates are riveted to pieces of thin aluminum. I alodined the aluminum and drilled some extra holes in the
plates to make the flox grip better to the plates. I will flox these to the underside of the plywood before I flox the
shoulder-brace to the seat-back later.
The jig to hold the shoulder-brace in place while glassing is temporarily fastened using a nail-gun. Very
handy to use to fasten things in a hurry.
The shoulder-brace is 5-min epoxyed and curing. Before glassing I will test-fit it to the seat-back and
make the final adjustments before I glass the inside.
Time used this chapter: 30:00 hours
Started: 2010-07-28
Ended: 2010-09-06
And here the head-rests are glassed on the outside as well. Two plies of BID at the front and
back, three plies around the sides and wrapped down front and back. Will flox them to the
shoulder-brace later.
Before glassing over the seatbelt-hardpoints I need to fill them with candle-wax to avoid epoxy in the
holes. The candle-wax can later be melted after I open the holes in the glass.
Before dripping candle-wax I put a little paper-ball inside to stop the candle-wax to drip through the
hole. I also masked the area around the hole to avoid the glass to be contaminated by wax prior to
glassing.
After removing the masking-tape the hole is filled with wax and hopefully it will be easy to
remove the wax and the hole will be free of epoxy... time will show :-)
The shoulder-brace is glassed and cured. The final step is to add 3 reinforcing UNI-plies over each hardpoint
for the seatbelts. This is a step not mentioned in the plans, but found in the FAQ and recommended to add
strength since the forces here will be quite strong if an accident happens. It's a bit tricky to get the UNI to stick
when bendt around the seatback and down behind. I clamped a particle-board to the back after covering it with
saran-wrap, and weighed down some saran-wrapped wood-sticks on top. I got away with just a few
air-pockets which I will fill with epoxy later.
The candle-wax procedure was a success. I (carefully) drilled through the glass over the hole, then used a small
knife and a screwdriver to dig as much wax as possible out, the rest together with the little paper-ball was just
pushed down into the brace. Finally I used a 1/4" reamer to "touch-up" the nut.
From the 1" x 1" alu-angle I made these brackets for the seatbelts. Drilled and alodined and ready for mounting.
The bracket is floxed in place and the screws are tightened. I recessed the heads in the fuselage,
actually counterboring through the glass on the outside until I reached the longerons. Filled the
outside hole with flox.
However - I bumped into a small problem in this step. The distance between the outer fuselage wall
and the top of the seat where the bracket are mounted was almost 1/2" higher than the plans! This
resulted in the screws beeing too short. I had to purchase new longer screws to solve this.
The reason for this error (minor!) is probably two things: I didn't remove enough foam when I
rounded the outer part of the fuselage. I could of course just drill a deeper recession from the
outside but I didnt quite fancy that idea compared to just adding longer screws.
The other reason was that instead of fiddling around with the plywood-hardpoint to get it lay dead
smooth on the fuselage-side, I just put a generous amount of flox under it, making the height a bit
higher. I didn't think about the screws at all... well, no big deal.
I ordered new screws from Wick's since ACS didn't have the right dimension. Wick's was
extremely
quick
and I got the screws sent from USA after only 4 days! Thumbs up!

Aft heat-duct
Seatbelt attachement
The aft heat-duct is made the same way as the front heat-duct in chapter 6.
This is the "transition-piece" - the transition from the aft heat-duct to a tube that goes further back and to the
firewall. It is made from a piece of 1.5" urethane. It is square in one end and circular in the other - hence
"transition". The urethane is covered with some electrical tape as a release-agent, then covered with 2 BID
and wrapped in saran-wrap to hold the BID tight. After cure the urethane is carved out together with the tape
and I end up with a tube.
The foam is carved out of the transition-piece and the square edge is cut 45 degrees to fit the heat-duct
later.
The pieces for the heat-duct is glued together, trial-fitted in the fuselage, sanded and made ready
for glassing. The alu-tube for seat-belt attachment is also cut and prepared for glassing.
The heat-duct is glassed and the transition-piece is floxed in place. Next step is to flox it in place in the
fuselage.
The heat-duct is floxed in place and taped to the fuselage. The 7 ply reinforcement over the seat-belt
attachement-tube is also in place. The layers are staggered to avoid big bumps.
There are also a 7 ply reinforcement over the front seat-belt attachement-tube.